Tokurinjia Temple: my home away from home
Hello friends, I’m finally here. I’m in Ireland. This country is my family’s homeland. My heritage is from county Cork. Today I’ll be going to countryside, to see the rolling green hills.
But before i tell you that, let me tell you my Dublin experience, eh? We arrived by ferry to Dublin’s port. The ferry was the nicest ship I’ve ever been on, it was almost like a floating hotel. I was expecting the same kind of ferry as my Japan experience, except without the tatami mats of course. We found a quiet area that had a good window. I went outside the deck and enjoyed the sea breeze (it was actually very windy, so it wasn’t romantic or anything. My hair was everywhere). After enjoying the wind, I found a chair and got lost in my book Good Omens.
We arrived by early evening and got a ride to our little Irish house/apartment off the Irish Sea. It is the perfect size and when I walk out the door, I see the Irish sea. It’s in a suburb of Dublin called Sandy Mount, a quaint town with everything you need. I didn’t explore too much my first day. We went to the town square and got beer (a Guinness) and then got dinner. I was quite tired after the train ride and ferry ride, so I walked back to the house looking to the Irish Sea the whole time. Such a pretty walk.
The next day, we woke up early and I made breakfast. I made egg and cheese sandwiches. My father and brother were impressed with my egg making skills. We made plans to visit the city that day. We caught the bus to the city centre and then walked towards Trinity College. The college started in 1592 and is the oldest university in Ireland. The Trinity library houses over 4 million substantial books and historical manuscripts, the most important of them: The Book of Kells. Have you heard of this book? It has a very interesting story, I’ll summarize.
The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript of the Gospel. Illuminated meaning the books is full of colorful and beautiful drawings and Celtic patterns. It was made by Celtic monks slightly before the year 800. It is a masterwork of Western calligraphy and is now Ireland’s most important national treasure. The book was first made on an island called Iona, but Vikings were a common threat. The monks had to flee Iona due to Viking raids and some came to the Abbey of Kells, which is how it got its name. Many hundreds of years past and monks would work on this book and protect it. Due to luck, the monks escaped most of the Vikings raids and finally got the book to a safe place, Trinity College, which is where it has stayed since. Fascinating story, right? If you want learn more, look it up or better yet, watch the movie The Secret of Kells. It is a beautifully made animated movie about the monks story. I believe it won a film award.
A picture from online. The whole book is like this!
Well, I saw the Book of Kells and the oldest Eire harp in Ireland (that harp is the symbol of Ireland). I walked through the library too and what a sight it was. Take a look!
The old library.
After the library, we took a bus to the Kilmainham prison (Gaol). It was built in 1796 and was known for poor living conditions. Many people were publicly hanged outside the front door for entertainment. Also, this is a famous prison because this is where many revolutionaries were held. They were imprisoned for treason because they wanted to make Ireland a republic. For a long time, England ruled Ireland. It wasn’t until the early 1900s when a group of revolutionaries, who started the term Republicans, wanted to change that.This was called the Easter Rebellion (1916) and the Republicans brought the Irish people together to fight for their land. There were a couple revolutions that resulted in many deaths, each ending with the Republican leaders being shot and killed in Kilmainham Gaol. This only fueled the fires. Within 3 years, the Republican party grew in strength and by 1919, they passed legislation to make Ireland its own Republic. It was a very bloody matter, shortly after the formation of the republic, a civil war occurred between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. The history is brutal, I’d recommend looking into it if you are curious.
The East Wing prison cell. The Republicans were housed here. Recognize it from any movies/shows?
I enjoyed the prison tour, it was very informative and we got to see a lot of it. I also didn’t know too much about my Irish history, so this tour has inspired me to read more about it.
The next day, Dad made breakfast and then we went into the city again. This time, we walked Grafton St and took a picture with Molly Malone. She was a prostitute and sold shellfish, there is a famous song about her. I also found a quaint museum called The Vanishing Irish. It was about simple Irish folk over the age of 90. Each picture had a quote attached to it, here’s my favorite one.
Neil O’Toole “But you know, people don’t laugh as much as they should. That’s a shame – laughing is good for the heart.”
After, Jamie and I caught the bus to the Guinness Brewery. I was surprised how extravagant it was. They definitely appeal to the tourist. There was a tasting room, where we could smell the vapors of each ingredient (barley, alcohol ethers, hops, and malt). We learned how to properly drink a Guinness during that time too.
1. Sit/stand straight
2. Arm is 90 degree to your body.
3. Breath in
4. Kiss glass
5. Take a sip and gulp
6. Breath out.
After, we poured our own glass and got a certificate for our exceptional pouring skills. Then, Jamie and I relaxed and enjoyed our pint. Overall, a pleasant experience.
I woke up early the next morning to finish Good Omens, which is such a good book. After breakfast, I had a nice long talk with my twin sister. She’s about to go hiking for 8-10 days in the Chinese countryside. Then, I jumped on the local train (the DART) and went as far as it would take me. I ended up in a fishing town called Howth. Luckily the weather was nice, so I walked around the town, down the harbor, and then I found a hiking trail that lead me to Howth Summit. I walked along the sea cliffs for a majority of it. The sea breeze felt so nice and I had some stunning views. Before I caught my train, there was a performer playing the saxophone. He was so good! I listened for a while, gave him a tip, and caught the train back to Dublin. On the train, I listened to the people around me; I will miss the Irish accents. They are definitely my favorite.
The nearby lighthouse and the Irish Sea.
Today, Jamie cooked breakfast and then Dad, Jamie, and I walked the Liffy River (the river that divides Dublin). James Joyce is a famous Irish novelist, he wrote Ulysses. In the novel he mentions The Liffy as a woman. Ever since then, the locals recognize the river as a lady. We walked down to Hueston Station, which is where I’d catch my train to the countryside. I said goodbye to the boys and asked the information desk where would be a good place to go that is not too far. They told me Kildare, so I bought a ticket and jumped on the train.
I watched the Irish countryside pass by; there was lots of green. I arrived at Kildare and saw a cathedral. I walked towards it and went inside. It was very quaint. There was information inside about the famous Protestant bishops who had worshipped there. One was Saint Bridget, she was sanctioned as a bishop through the work of god. At least that’s what the informational packets told me. I didn’t realize they let women be bishops. There was also a tower in the churchyard that was once used as a bell tower. The gatekeeper told me the tower is original, it’s from the 9-10th century. The monks would ring the bell to signal the other monks to come back to the cathedral or when Vikings were coming. To escape from the Vikings, the monks would climb up to the door with all the church’s valuables and then they would roll up the rope ladder. The door is 5 meters off the ground, so the Vikings couldn’t reach. The coolest part? I got to climb the tower! The ladders were rickety and the holes were very small; it was quite the endeavor. I spent a lot of time up there, looking out to the countryside. The breeze felt nice and the views were great. What a cool experience.
The Tower
Kildare.
I explored more of the town and walked out to the countryside. The weather stayed clear and I walked through the green landscape. What a great way to finish my Ireland experience and my trip.
Now I’m heading back to Dublin to get dinner and to pack my bags. Wow. I’m going home.
Much love,
-Molly
Molly is in London!
Hello friends, as I type, I am on a train to Holyhead port, England. From Holyhead, I will take a ferry to Ireland, which is my final country to visit. Wow, my trip is almost done.
Well, let’s talk about my jolly ‘ole time in England! We arrived in London by a very fast train that took the Chunnel (a railway tunnel that goes under the English Channel). From Paris, it only took a little over 2 hours. Woah.
We took a taxi to the apartment we would be staying at in the South Kensington/Chelsea area. If you didn’t know, this is a very posh area of London. This is near the palaces and many well to-do people live here. We arrived at the apartment and found a 4 story, but very skinny building. It had a cute charm, so I liked it right away. It had a nice living room (my bedroom), large kitchen in the basement, and 2 more stories with just bedrooms. I felt like a princess. While, Jamie and Dad explored South Kensington, I rested in the apartment. I made some tea, turned on BBC, and relaxed. (If you’re curious, I injured my foot in Paris. The Keen sandals I love have met their end. Wearing them for 7 months straight has finally hurt my feet. So sad). I felt very British. The telly told me there was a flood in South London and that imported fruit from France tasted the same as English fruit. How very interesting. I was happy to have a rest day after 2 weeks of constant movement.
The next morning, I made Crêpes for the family (Pauline taught me how). After breakfast, we decided to go to the Tower of London. If you didn’t know, the Tower of London was once the old palace for the kings and queens of England, but eventually became famous for being a prison and torture chamber. Many royal or famous people were sentenced to death because of treason and were sent here. Before the 1800’s, all deaths were by beheadment, in which these men and women would be shamefully walked across the city, from the Tower of London, to a public space to get their head chopped off. Then, their head would be placed on a spike and left on London Bridge, as a warning for the people questioning the throne.
The Tower of London (and Tower Bridge).
We got a tour with a Yeomen Warder, who is apart of the Queen’s Guard. They guard the Tower and they lead the tours. It is a very respectable job; it takes 22 years of military service and good standing to even apply. This position has existed since the 11th century, and it’s one of the oldest jobs in the world. Cool, right?
During my tour, I learned a lot about the Tower of London. I’ll share my favorite story with you. There is a tower called the Bloody Tower, it used to be called the Garden Tower, but its name changed because of a murder that took place. Hundreds of years ago, the power to rule as king was so desired, that relatives or descendants would do anything to have it. Some would marry their way in, but some people were so vile, that they would kill their own family for the throne. In the Tower of London, there is a mystery. In 1483 there were 2 princes, age 12 and 9, whose father died and they were next to the throne. Their uncle, Richard, was their lord protector and would teach them how to rule the kingdom. Soon after their fathers death, Richard invited the boys to the Tower of London and shortly thereafter the boys disappeared. The specific date of their disappearance is unknown. Since they could not be found, Richard was next in line and became king. Many believe a servant of Richard or even Richard himself killed the children in the Garden Tower. No one will ever know, but even today, the tower is still called the Bloody Tower. Creepy, right? I learned that 2 small skeletons were found beneath a staircase in a different building 200 years later. People believed it was the lost princes, so they buried the skeletons in Westminster Abbey with their royal relatives.
This is the White Tower, where they found the skeletons. Weapons and armor are also showcased here.
The Tower of London was a very interesting place. The history is full of terrible stories and the coolest part is that you can really see its history. There is a tower where most of the prisoners were held and they all etched their names or drew pictures on the stone. It is still preserved today, so I got to see people’s graffiti from 500 years ago. There were initials, stone carving, and even their last thoughts. I’m sure these people did not think their last thoughts would be seen by people 500 years later.
Alright, I’ll stop talking about the Tower of London, but you should totally check it out if you’re in London. Or look up the Wikipedia page, you’ll be reading for hours.
Some more towers.
After the tower, Jamie and I walked the Queen’s Walk. This is a path that follows the Thames river on the South side. The weather was beautiful and we got great views of London. We walked through an old district that was once known for its taverns and whore houses. Some of the buildings were still intact and I imagined that hundreds of years ago women were hanging outside these windows encouraging young men into their brothels (maybe I read way too much Game of Thrones…). Near the end, we saw the London Eye, a giant ferris wheel that is above the Thames. And then, across the river I saw Big Ben. Similar to Mount Fuji, the Kremlin, and the Eiffel Tower; I will remember the first moment I saw Big Ben. We took a few pictures and then headed back towards the apartment.
Big Ben.
I had read on Facebook, that my old friend, named Dash, from college was traveling through Europe with his younger brother and that we’d be in London at the same time! We reconnected and decided to meet at the Church Hill Arms, a restaurant and pub. We ordered drinks and talked about our travels. They had been in Turkey during the protests, so it was interesting to hear about their perspective. We talked into the late hours of the night and I learned a lot from them. I was very happy to see Dash again and I look forward to our next meeting.
The next morning, I woke to my father making breakfast. He cooked eggs, bacon, and toast (‘Merica). Earlier in the week, I had reconnected with a high school friend, named Lindsay, who goes to Oxford for Classical Archeology. She invited me to visit her at Oxford, so after breakfast, I took the Oxford Tube (a double-decker bus) to see my friend. She met me at the bus stop, we hugged, and then my Oxford tour started.
Isn’t she pretty? : )
We walked all over the city. She showed me the historical sights and the most beautiful campuses (since she is a student, I got inside for free!). She showed me the pub called Eagle and Child, which is famous because C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien were regulars and wrote their books inside it. While walking around the campuses, I imagined how many students have walked the same route. I mean, these schools have been open for hundreds of years! I asked Lindsay how it feels to go to a school with so much history, and she says it still gives her goosebumps and that it encourages her to work hard even on the bad days. In most of the campuses, there are gardens, or meadows (full of deer?), or even small lakes. Each campus has their own character. I like that.
Such a nice campus.
Another highlight was the random Harry Potter movie spots. Many parts of Oxford were used for filming, so Lindsay showed me as many as she could. I am not ashamed to say that I felt giddy walking around these places. Overall, I had a great time in Oxford, thanks to Lindsay. I saw history, posh college life, beautiful places, and not to mention my wonderful friend.
The hallway in Harry Potter.
The courtyard where Harry gets in a fight with Malfoy.
I must mention, I just looked outside and I saw a golf course with lots of sheep on it. I thought, “oh, must be an abandoned golf course,” but no there were many golfers with theirs wheeled-golf bags walking in between the herds of sheep.
On my final day in London, Dad cooked breakfast again, but ham and eggs this time. After, we set off to the Buckingham Palace. We walked through Piccadilly area, walked through the park, and saw the statue of Queen Victoria protecting Buckingham palace. We stayed for a bit and then walked through Saint James Park towards Big Ben. Dad hadn’t seen him yet. We took our pictures with the clock tower/parliament and then separated. Jamie and I got lunch and Dad found the Savoy Hotel, which is where my granddad proposed to my grandmom. Our last day in London was relaxing and full of delicious food (I got Toad in a Hole… Yum).
Buckingham Palace.
The next time you hear from me, I’ll be in Ireland. My family’s homeland.
Much love,
-Molly
Thanks for the good time.
Hello friends, it is Molly in Paris! I have been here for 4 days and I have had quite the French experience. I ate oodles of cheese, bread, chocolate, and other French things. We are staying in an apartment on the Left Bank of Paris, which is known for its philosophical thinkers, such as Albert Camus, Simone de Beauvoir, etc. These men and women would sit in cafes, drink coffee, and think deeply. Even now, this area is full of students who are attending the Sorbonne (University of Paris) and let’s hope they think a lot too.
We arrived early Tuesday morning from Vienna (which did you know is rated #1 for Quality of Living in the world?). We arrived at our quaint apartment and I found out my “room” was a small alcove above a ladder in the wall. It was my little birds nest, I liked it. After dropping off our stuff, we got breakfast at the Duex Maggots, which we learned later is a famous cafe. I had good coffee and a tasty omelette. While drinking my coffee, I reminisced how I had spent so much time in countries with bad coffee, but great tea. I’ll miss the tea for sure, but I love coffee. I’ve missed it.
My birds nest.
I had seen the Eiffel Tower (and the Arc de Triomphe) while driving in and I had an itch to go see it for real that day, so Jamie and I walked along the Sienne River towards the tower. We took a turn to look at the Army Museum building, just SE of it. We did not go inside, but the building has a golden dome and we learned Napoleon is buried beneath it.
The Army Museum
We continued NW and then through the trees and buildings, we saw it. We had found the promenade and the Eiffel Tower. I pretty much frolicked towards it, while occasionally making my brother take a picture of me. There were lots of people in the promenade, either taking pictures or having a picnic. After 15 minutes of frolicking and taking pictures, we made it underneath. I was impressed with the intricate lattice ironwork. Jamie and I spent a long moment appreciating the size and architecture, it really is a modern marvel. We walked into a park and found a bench to sit on. We had a great view of the tower and we had Coca Colas to quench our thirst (‘Merica!).
It’s me with the Eiffel Tower!
I knew I’d be back to climb to the top, so we said “see yah later” and went back towards the Left Bank to meet up with my Dad. We got dinner at a French restaurant and after dinner I went on a walk following the Seinne River, but East this time. I listened to a piano player for awhile, then I found a thriving street full of people eating and drinking. I continued on my way and noticed a large cathedral in the distance and knew right away that I had found Notre Dame. At sunset, the walls were illuminated and I could see the flying buttresses and gargoyles. I walked all around the cathedral, looking at the different gargoyles and statues. I walked farther away from it, through a garden and found a bridge with lots of locks on it. This bridge is where couples buy a lock, write their names on it, lock it to the bridge, and then they throw the key into the river, to prove their everlasting love for each other. So romantic. I then watched the sun set over the Paris cityscape with Notre Dame in view. What a great first day.
The next day, I woke up early and picked up breakfast for the family. After eating, we all explored the Left Bank together. Dad had a book, so we looked at the historical buildings and walked the cobblestone streets. We visited the Sorbonne, just to see what the university looks like. It was very magnificent. I went to the University of Oregon (go ducks!) and I always thought our buildings were pretty cool, but European colleges are far more elegant. We then went to Notre Dame and went inside. I got an audio tour, which I was thankful for. I learned a lot about the history of the cathedral. My 3 highlights were: The round rosary windows on the North and South sides were gorgeous. Also, there are wooden sculptures that tell the story of Jesus’s Resurrection, which were used by the illiterate back in the 1400’s. Lastly, I did not know the cathedral was in ruin for hundreds of years, it wasn’t until the 19th century that it was renovated.
The old streets of Paris
The inside of Notre Dame
Dad had not seen the Eiffel Tower, so we took the #10 subway to its nearest station. We walked the promenade again and took more pictures as a family (Aw). I split from Dad and Jamie so that I could go to the top. I climbed the steps to the first and second platforms, reading the informational boards along the way. Since it was rainy, there were less people on the tower, which was nice. By the time I reached the second platform, the sun had come out. I waited in line for a short while for the elevator to the top. In the elevator, I watched Paris get smaller and smaller and there were lots of gears and wires we passed along the way. At the top, I had an amazing view of Paris. The platform is circular, so I could see all of the city. I found my favorite spot, where I could see the Arch, the river, and a beautiful cathedral on a hill in the distance. I stood there for awhile, enjoying the view and daydreaming.
Me on top of Paris.
I returned to the Left Bank and got French food again. I got creme brûlée that evening and it was the best I have ever had! After dinner, I walked along the river again and saw lots of people picnicking and smoking cigarettes on the canals. I don’t like to smoke, but I do like picnics, so I bought a small snack and joined in with the French culture. The night air felt nice and surprisingly the canal smelled pretty good too. Many tourist boats passed by and I waved to them, the children looked so pleased.
The next day was jam packed with fun. Dad got breakfast, some croissants and fruit, and then we decided to walk across the river to explore the Right Bank. We found out it is the market place, so there were shops everywhere. There were lots of old buildings that were converted into stores and there was the Pompidou, the famous modern art museum. The outside was very interesting, it had lots of tubes and wires. We stepped inside and got a glimpse of it. I like art, but modern art is hard for me to understand. When I go to exhibits, I feel out of place because people all around me are appreciating a piece of art that I just don’t get. After that, we walked down the street towards the world famous Louvre.
We found the building and walked inside it’s gigantic doors, and through the doorway, I could see the glass pyramids. The building itself is so big, there are 3 separate sections that house priceless art from all over the world. I did not realize how huge The Louvre is.
It reminds me of the DaVinci Code. Such a good book.
Jamie and I went inside and went to the Denon section, the one with the Mona Lisa. We walked into the Italian sculptures room and we also looked at stonework from Spain and from the Nords. We then entered the Renaissance hallway and walked in between priceless art pieces. I even recognized some art that I learned about in school. Near the end, we walked into the Mona Lisa room. I was happy to finally see her in person, she really is beautiful. We continued exploring until the museum closed. I wish I had more time to see the other exhibits.
The Mona Lisa.
We got dinner and then I left Dad and Jamie to see my friend Pauline, who I had met in Ecuador 2 year ago, specifically at the Galapagos Islands. (I took a week long trip to the islands and lived on a boat that brought me to the different islands. Pauline joined me for 4 days and we became fast friends). I met her at the Gare Montparnasse to then take a train to her house 20 minutes outside Paris. We chatted the whole time and caught up with each others lives. That evening, she cut me slices of baguette and I ate smelly cheese or ham spread with it. It was so French! We also prepped the Crêpes batter for our morning breakfast.
The next morning, I woke up early and started to read my new book Good Omens by Neil Gaiman and Terry Planchett. I am 50 pages in and it is hilarious! Pauline woke up eventually and she taught me how to make Crêpes and then we feasted like French queens. We had honey, sugar, jam, and butter to make some delicious Crêpes. Yummmmm! Afterward, Pauline played piano and I listened. She played Miyazaki music, music from movies, and Debussy. I enjoyed listening to her play; she is very talented.
She showed me around her village, which is very cute. We walked around the old part and she showed me a church that was built during the 1100s. She did not think much of it, but I was amazed. We walked to the cemetery too (did you know that the French have extravagant tombstones/tombs, even for ordinary people? It’s the norm here). We then sat in a park and talked about the world and how gay marriage is now legal in both of our home countries/states. Hooray!
She walked me to the train station and we said our goodbyes. I was so happy to see her again and I know this will not be our last meeting. Good luck with your Librarian Studies degree, Pauline!
I’ll miss you, my French friend. <3
Well, the rest of Paris was spent eating dinner and packing my bags for London. I walked to Notre Dame to get one last look. I’ll miss seeing the pretty cathedrals in America.
Till London.
Much love,
-Molly
My brother and I
This is Alice Schalek and she is a badass. She was the only female military correspondent during WW1.
Hello friends, here I am on my last night in Vienna. I am lounging on the couch/bed, listening to someone play guitar outside my window. Every evening there has been a different musician who performs in a cafe below our window. Last night, the performer was a Spanish woman with a very rough voice.
I’ve enjoyed my time in Vienna. We stayed in the Museum District and this part of Vienna is full of hip artists. There are many galleries and chill cafes to drink coffee or beer at. I also really like how bike friendly the city is! There are bike trails all over the central Old Town District and bike lanes on almost every major road.
The first night in town, I ate Wienerschnizel in a local biesl (small restaurant). Before this moment, I actually had no idea what wienerschnizel was. I knew it was super Austrian, so I ordered it and was pleasantly surprised to find that it’s fried thin cut veal. It was delicious. The moment even got 2X better because a man in lederhosen walked by. At that moment, I knew I was in Austria. After dinner, I heard there was a film festival happening at Wien Universitat, so I walked on over to find lots of food/drink vendors and a large amphitheater in the park. I got a lager, found a nice spot in the amphitheater, and watched a recorded performance of a British performer singing American songs. I liked the atmosphere, everyone was laughing and smiling. I smiled too and drank my beer.
Saint Stephen’s Cathedral.
The next day, Dad, Jamie, and I walked to Old Town and visited the famous Saint Stephen’s Cathedral. On the way, we appreciated the beautiful architecture, especially the historical museum buildings and palace. The old buildings have now been converted to fancy stores, such as Versace and Banana Republic, but the history is still there. We found the cathedral and walked inside to find a catacombs tour starting in 15 minutes. Jamie and I knew we had to do it, when else would we have the opportunity to go beneath a Cathedral?
The catacombs. Creepy, right?
The tour started in the tomb room, where all the bishops are entombed. There were bronze and clay busts of each person buried there. It made me wonder what these men were like back when they were alive. Some looked happy, but some looked mean and nasty. Maybe they had their bust done on a bad day? The next room was really interesting. It had the organs of the Hapsburg family in bronze tins, these bronze tins are filled with alcohol to preserve the organs (their hearts are in the Augustinian Church nearby). The next room had the tombs of the Hapsburgs, the central tomb is of Maria Theresa and Franz Joseph I. I can’t believe I was able to be inside the tomb room with all the Hapsburgs, such a cool experience. We were then ushered deeper into the catacombs. The nice stone arches that had been above us turned into low ceilings of brick. We were told we had left the Cathedral grounds and were underneath the square. We passed several “windows” that were pitch dark, but if you flashed a light there would be piles of bones or tombs. One of the rooms was where normal people were buried, people who wanted to be near the cathedral after death. One room had human bones that reached the ceiling. We were told that was where plague victims were thrown into. We even passed by a tunnel in the floor where you could see that people threw dead bodies into it because there was a large pile underneath the hole. Creepy. Jamie and I had a great time in the catacombs, definitely a must see for anyone who comes to Vienna.
The Ferris Wheel from within the carriage.
The next day, we decided to do a bus tour to the Prater, a famous park with a historic ferris wheel. We learned some info on the city and then explored the park. It ended up being an amusement park of sorts, I felt like I was at the Minnesota state fair! We found the ferris wheel and rode it. We got a great view of the city. I learned that after the bombings in Vienna, almost all the prominent buildings burned to the ground. Well, the ferris wheel carriages may have burned, but the ferris wheel was still turning after the air raids. This inspired some people to rebuild Vienna. My Dad and I also went on a swing ride that took us well above the skyline. I enjoyed the wind betweens by toes and the view, but I think my Dad was scared the whole time… (sorry Dad!). After the park, we ate lunch at the world famous Sacher Cafe (I’d never heard of it), and ate world renowned chocolate cake. It was pretty darn good.
yuuuuuuum.
Today, we went to the Military History Museum. I wanted to learn about Austria’s WW1 and WW2 history and I got to see really cool military memorabilia from the 1500’s. I spent 3 hours listening to the audio guide and looking at all the history. There were gigantic paintings showing the battles of the 30 years war and the Napoleonic wars. Mostly what I learned is that Austria has a very long losing streak. Austria has spent a majority of its life in civil or foreign strife. Not only did Serbia, Germany, France, and Italy overtake it’s lands, but the Austrian people have been conflicted since the 1600’s, so civil war was a common problem. My favorite part of the exhibit was definitely the Franz Ferdinand/Sarajevo room and the WW2/Nazi regime room. I saw the car that Franz Ferdinand and his wife were assassinated in; they also had the blood stained uniform. There was a picture in the room of Franz and his wife before the parade started. They seemed so happy. It saddened me to know this was the last picture ever taken of them alive. The WW2 room was filled with Nazi memorabilia. Lots of propaganda posters and uniforms. Even tanks and letters from Hitler. I learned that Austria was the first country to fall under Hitler and that the Austrian people were pressured into joining the Nazi army. Many people were disgusted by Hitler’s ideals, so the countrymen split in half; 1 side for Nazi Austria, the other an underground group fighting for the allies. What an interesting story.
The vehicle Franz Ferdinand was shot in.
WW2 tanks.
The rest of the day was very hot, so Jamie and I went on a short walk and then I spent the rest of the day writing in my journal and doing this. Now it’s pretty late. I must get to bed to catch my plane to Paris. How exciting!
Much love,
-Molly
Here’s my sexy pose with Prague/Prague Castle behind me.
Hello friends! I made it to the Czech Republic and I have spent 3 days in Prague and 1 day in Kutna Hora. I must say (I think I say this every time) that Prague is a beautiful city, especially at dusk. All the roofs are tiled in orange and many of the buildings are still in their original form. Walking around the city has been a treat. You know the best part though? My father and brother, Jamie, are here with me. So, my solo travels have ended and my family bonding time has just started!
My brother Jamie and my Dad!
On the first day, I spent a majority of my time in Old Town. There is a square (a public space) where musicians perform and you can see two famous sights: the old town hall tower/astronomical clock and Tyn Church. I also walked to Charles Bridge and got a great view of the towns riverside. While walking beneath the Old Town bridge watch tower and down the cobblestone bridge, I imagined what life must’ve been like 700 years ago. There must of been lots of horse traffic and I bet the bridge was full of vendors selling their wares. I also bet many people have laughed, cried, and kissed here. Well, actually thinking about, in the end nothing has really changed (except for the horses maybe). I am sure my time in Europe will be full of these thoughts. That evening, I ate goulash, which is authentic Czech cuisine. Yum.
There is Old Town and Charles Bridge.
The next day, Dad, Jamie, and I visited Prague Castle. It was the first castle I’ve ever been too, so it was a pretty big deal for me. We bought tickets to see the castle and it’s most famous buildings. Our first stop was Saint Vitus Cathedral. Since this cathedral was meant for nobility, it was chalk-full of gold decor and exquisite stained glass.
Saint Vitus Cathedral
The next place was attached to the cathedral. This building was used for royal business. There is a parliament room and several other rooms where councilors would meet. My favorite part, you ask? Well, it has to be the third story councilor room, where 2 Catholic councilors were thrown out a window; this was called the Defenstration of Prague! Back in old Bohemia, Protestants were discriminated against under the monarchy. Rudolph II made a law about religious liberty, but still Protestants were treated unfairly. Well, the 2 Catholic men violated the religious liberty law because the Protestants wanted to build a church near/inside the castle gates, but the 2 councilors believed only Catholic churches should be built within the castle grounds. Well, the Protestants weren’t too happy about that, so they marched up to the 3rd floor, found the councilors, and threw them out the window. Miraculously, they survived. But, how? Well, there are 2 stories. One is that angels caught them in mid flight and brought them safely to the ground. The second story is that they landed in a large pile of horse manure. Either way, they were defenstrated out of a window, to then spark the 30 year war. Tah-Dah, history!
On day 3, we went to Petrin Park to get a good view of the city. We went to the top of an observation tower and could see all of Prague.
Look at all the orange tiles!
Jamie and I then went to an castle called Vsehrad and explored the grounds. There was a beautiful church and a graveyard that houses famous Czech artists, one of them you may know is Antonin Dvorak, the famous composer. It was a pleasant walk. We walked back towards Old Town and I went to Charles Bridge again. I sat on the bridge and watched people pass by. I also listened to a violin player, while people watching. I was there till the sun set over Prague.
Day 4 was probably my favorite day. Jamie and I decided to go to Kutna Hora. It is famous for being the second most important town in the Czech Republic, and it has 2 UNESCO site churches. We visited both of them. One is called the Ossuary and it was built during the Black Plague. During this time, the master builder built the church, but had no means to decorate it. So, he used the human bones (people who died from the Plague) that were piled beside the church as interior decorating. Still, the church is completely covered in human bones. Here are some pictures!
This is the chandelier completely made out of bones
There are 4 pyramids of human skulls.
Jamie and I walked across town to the next UNESCO site, The Curch of Saint Barbara. In the last 4 days, I’ve seen lots of churches, but this one takes the cake. The outside was phenomenal and the history inside was so cool! The frescos and original painted glass were very interesting. Jamie and I sat inside for a long time, soaking in the beautiful architecture.
Magnificent.
We returned back to Prague by the early evening. After dinner, I went on my last stroll through Old Town and wrote in my journal at the square. The clock tower looked so pretty during dusk.
That’s my Prague experience in a nutshell. My Europe trip may not be as exciting as living in a Japanese zazen temple or as exciting as horseback riding in the Gobi desert, but I hope you will still enjoy reading my blog. : )
Much love,
-Molly
I made it to Moscow!
Hello friends, I made it to Moscow! I’ve been here for 4 days and it has been quite the cosmopolitan experience. Before I indulge you with my city life, I’ll tell you some funny stories from my 4 day train ride from Irkutsck.
Well, where I left you last, I was rushing to the train station to catch my 3am train. I got to the station on time, but found out the train was delayed for 2 hours. So, I sat on the main steps and tried to read my book for awhile, but I started dozing off. I was worried that I’d sleep through the train arrival (since the delay time was changing constantly), so I started humming to keep myself awake. Little did I know, there was a 19 year old Russian boy who noticed me and (he told me later) thought I looked really sad and lonely. As I was dozing off again, this boy approaches me and starts speaking Russian. I told him, “sorry, I don’t speak Russian.” He was so surprised to meet a foreigner that he didn’t know what to do, so he grabbed my bag and started walking away with it! I jumped up and asked him to let go of my bag, but I could tell that he was trying to help me. So, I followed him to a bunch of chairs and he placed it down and pointed to a chair (where he was sitting before.) He then extended his arms, did a little dance, and said “Tah-Dah.” I laughed and sat down; I knew we’d be friends.
We would stop at train stations to pick up new passengers. I would stretch my legs.
He ended up being my Russian teacher for 4 days and I was pleasantly surprised to find out that he spoke a little English! His name is Konstantin, but I call him Kostia, and he just finished his military service. Everyday, we would meet and he would teach me new words and I would help him improve his English. It was a great way to pass the time on the train!
So, about the train. I took 3rd class, which means I was in a carriage that has no privacy. There are 6 beds per room, but the room is only 2 sided. The way the beds are set up: 4 beds are in a bunk bed style and they are perpendicular to the train, another 2 beds are bunk bed style, but parallel to the train and they are in the hallway part of the carriage. I was in the latter bed at the top. If I laid down correctly, I could look out the window while in bed; I really liked that.
My view from the hallway.
I woke up the first morning and found 4 Russians sharing a meal of ham and bread. I smiled and they smiled and a very large busty woman motioned me to sit beside her. She said some Russian to me and I made that ‘sorry, I don’t speak your language’ face. Well, she erupted in laughter, and gave me a huge grin. This is when she started feeding me food. I ate and ate aaaaaand ate. They wouldn’t stop. Kostia arrived by this time and told me how to say I’m full and it stopped. The busty women laughed some more, told me I was her daughter, and then gave me a huge, wet kiss on the cheek. I had just become part of the family.
This group of people ended up being paegans with an Indian influence. They would meditate and hum chants together (there were at least 15 people). It was a very special experience. I was happy to learn a new method of meditation and to share food with these kind, open people. Sadly, they left after 2 days, but we exchanged contacts and I plan to send them American food/souvenirs as a thank you. As a side note, the people who replaced them were total opposites. These 2 women walked in with their noses held high, and Kostia translated to me that they thought I was ugly because I did’t wear make-up. When he translated to them that I feel pretty without make-up, they scoffed and told me I would never find a man to love me and I will never have children. (Before you send me pity notes, please understand I know they are wrong. I just think it is a very funny and sadly, a very Western-Russian thing.)
I’ll miss you my paegan friends!
The rest of the train ride went well. I read my book, learned Russian, slept a lot, looked out the window, did lots of thinking, and talked with Kostia. I was very lucky to have a friend on the train.
I must say, Moscow is a very beautiful town. It is surprisingly green and it is full of historic buildings. It tickles me to see the hammer and sickle engraved into the older buildings. There are lots of red stars decorated about and I still see the CCCP on some old monuments. The USSR era may have fallen 2 decades ago, but there is still a presence. I went on a free tour of the city and one of my favorite stops was this church that survived the Christian purges of the USSR. The government told the public that this church was very sacred, but in actuality, the KGB (secret police), would question and torture criminals in it. All in secrecy. How crazy is that? I also saw the Red Square, Saint Basil’s Cathedral, and the Kremlin of course.
The Kremlin!
I spent some time exploring the town. The farther you go away from the town center, the more you’ll see old soviet style apartments and lots of ugly block, cement buildings. There is also a wall that the soviets built to defend from attack, but most of it has been demolished or is now used for random buildings. I visited some old factories that were used during war times, but are now hip bars/restaurants.
My last comment about Moscow is that the metro system tunnels are exceptional. They are huge with lots of arches and decorations. Some have chandeliers, some statues, and many are lined with paintings (some dating back to the 1930s). When I got off the subway from the train station, I was blown away by the criss-crossing stairways. Kostia didn’t seem to notice just how cool it looked. You know, seeing so many people walking up, down, and around the numerous amounts of stairways! Also, the escalators were so long and the tunnels were gigantic. Okay, I’ll stop talking about the metro, but I honestly was blown away.
Other than that, Russia has been a great time. Irkutsck, Lake Baikal, the TransSiberian train, and Moscow. I wish I could’ve seen St. Petersburg, but I guess I’ll just have to come back. I am glad to have spent time here and that I was able to make new friends. Today, I will go to the cosmonaut museum and then I will catch my plane to Prague to meet my father and brother in the morning. I can’t wait to see them. : )
I’ll talk to you soon.
Much love,
-Molly
Thank you Kostia!
Ulan-Ude’s train terminal.
Hello friends, I’m back from Olkhon Island. I’m at the TransSib Hostel again waiting for my 3am train to Moscow. I have a few hours to kill, so why not catch you up with my life in Russia.
I left Ulaanbaatar a week ago by train and spent 1.5 days reading (as I told you in my last post). Here are some shots of my trip from UB to Irkutsck.
Near the border of Russia and Mongolia.
The Siberian countryside.
Pretty right? I’ll go into more detail about train riding in my next post. I’ll be on a train for 3-4 days by then and will have a lot more to tell.
I got into Irkutsck early in the morning and dropped off my bag at my hostel. I met some friendly travelers who gave me great advice about what to see in Irkutsck. One of them was a German named Golbi, and we both went exploring around the city. In Irkutsck, there is a large river that flows through the center of town. There is a river path with lots of trees and flowers; we walked along this path until we reached a super Russian monument. It had the communist star, an eagle with a scythe, and a man with an epic mustache. I was impressed. We decided to diverge from the city and quickly found a beautiful church/temple/cathedral. Something I learned about Russian architecture is that they love color for their churches. Golbi told me that Russia puts a lot of money in their churches. They want to make them look impressive, for the Russian people and for their respective gods.
Here’s a town map.
There are churches everywhere and each has their own colors and personalities. They also are all orthodox, so I felt a little out of place with my Capri-shorts and t-shirt. The women inside wore covers over their heads. I eventually got the picture and put on my bandana, so to respect their traditions. I visited 3 churches and each one had beautiful paintings inside and smelled of burnt candles. It reminded me of my good ‘ole Catholic mass days. I had the realization that I hadn’t been in a church since China (Colleen and I found a Catholic church in Dali.) I am still not used to seeing so many around and also vice versa, I miss seeing the Buddhist temples. Where are the monks? Where are the prayer beads? Where am I? Yes, I’m exaggerating, but there is some truth. I do miss the temples.
Golbi and I found an outdoor market full of fruit and vegetables. I ate strawberries. I will repeat, I ate juicy, delicious strawberries! There was so much meat and dairy in Mongolia that I forgot what eating too much fruit feels like (which was a little uncomfortable, but totally worth it). Other than that, I spent the rest of the day relaxing, and prepping for my 4 day trip to Lake Baikal.
I left the following morning and jumped into a meaker with 11 other people. Two were Americans and I got to enjoy a hearty conversation about ecology and evolution with a biological engineering grad student. Hooray for science! After 7 hours in a meaker and a ferry boat, we made it to the island. (If you’re interested, I stayed at Sunny Hostel. It was very nice. Good people and good food. No complaints.) I roomed with a Londoner named Sue. She was a hoot. There was still a lot of daylight left, so I walked down to the beach and watched the sun go over the distant mountains. While I was waiting for the sun, I organized rocks and played my Siberian tongue instrument (I got in UB at the black market). Whenever I have free time, usually outside, I like to practice. I’ve really improved since I first got it 2 months ago.
nice, right?
The Lake Baikal sunset
The following day, I decided to go hiking. I ate breakfast, packed my bag, and headed towards the mountains to the East. I found a trail and walked for awhile. After a few hours, I made it to the top of a hill/mountain. I could see the village I was staying in and I could see Lake Baikal all around me. The day before, it didn’t hit me, just how big the lake is. It wasn’t until I reached the hilltop that I realized I couldn’t see land in the distance. Just water; fresh, drinkable water. I was surrounded by the worlds largest fresh water lake. Wow. I spent the rest of the day hiking around. There are interesting rock formations near the waters edge South of town, so I walked there and read my book on the rocks. The lake breeze and the smell of algae made me smile.
The view from the top of the hill.
The next day, Sue and I took an excursion out to the SE part of the island to hike down to the water. It was a nice hike. There were lots of trees, flowers, and butterflies. The lake was beautiful from this side as well. There are more big stones to jump on and to sit on. I also watched seals play and eat fish. After the hike back to the van, we ate the local fish called omul. It is a white fish that is endemic to Lake Baikal and it sure is tasty. I was happy to have had fish again after a 3 month hiatus! I was pretty tired after the hike, but was persuaded to show off my volleyball skills. I was surrounded by a bunch of Russians and played volleyball until it got dark (at 11pm!). I am happy to say that I represented my country well in the art of volleyball. :)
Well, the next day Sue and I slowly got ready for our long trip back to Irkutsck. We both had trains to catch in the evening. I waved goodbye to Lake Baikal and watched the scenery go by. I said goodbye to Sue at the train station and now I am here, finishing my blog post at the perfect time. I should get to the train station.
I’ll be on the train for 3-4 days. My goals are to finish Game of Thrones and Steig Larson’s The Girl Who Kicked The Hornets Nest. I also want to learn some Russian. I’m sure I’ll meet some friendly people.
Thanks for reading. I’ll catch up with you later when I’m in Moscow.
Much love,
-Molly
My friend Davaakhuu escorted me to the train station. Goodbye Mongolia.
Hello friends, as I write I am relaxing at TransSib Hostel in Irkusck, Russia. I got off the TransSiberian train this morning after 1.5 days of travel from Ulaanbaatar. Before I mention too much about the train, I’ll catch you up with the end of my Mongolia trip and Naadam!
The last you heard of me was about Toro Band, the infamous horse thief. Well, after my van ride around Dariganga, I spent 1 more week in town with Heath and Jeremy. We relaxed, cooked food, watched movies, and hung out. (Also, if you wanted to know, on July 4th we made bread sticks, drank a beer, and watched Independence Day. ‘Merica!)
Jeremy serenading Heath and Me
Heath skyping a friend with the neighbor boys.
On July 5th, Naadam started and it went till the 6th. I bought a Mongolian Dell (a traditional shirt) for the occasion! Heath’s host family drove us to the Naadam grounds where we watched wrestling and horse racing. The grounds were simple and the equipment was basic, but the people and tents were very colorful. Everyone was in their best dell or clothes. We sat with the teachers and watched wrestling for a long while. I learned that there are specific outfits for wrestling. Men wear undies that are tied with rope and are bright colors like pink, blue, or red. They also have arm sleeves (no shirt) that are tied with rope on the front. When the battle begins, they run out onto the field, they flap their arms like birds, their coach takes off their hat, they stretch, and then they start the match against their opponent. When someone loses they untie the arm sleeves and the winner slaps them on the butt. The winner then flaps his wings, grabs some Arilth (hard cheese curd), and throws it to the audience. We watched this for a couple hours. Is it weird to say that I really enjoyed watching it? Watching 2 huge men wrestle is quite the sight. Also, their undies were so cute. Heath and Jeremy did not agree with me… Alas.
Men wrestling for Naadam (Photo by Andy Wong)
When wrestling wasn’t happening, we watched the horse racing. Remember how Dariganga has fast horses because of Toro Band? Well, there were a lot of horse races because so many people raise horses here. There were 6 races (1 per year for the horse) and I watched 3 of them. The first time I saw the horses reach the hillside was quite the sight. I could see a small speck, which was the horse, but I also saw a flood of vehicles following close to their respective horses. Seeing the distance fill up with horses and cars will be unforgettable.
Naadam’s Horse Race. Here is the winner!
Heath, Jeremy, and I caught a manure truck back to town and spent the rest of the day relaxing. The second day of Naadam was a similar experience, except with more trophy ceremonies. Heath’s host family won 3rd and 5th in two horse races! Very cool.
The following morning, we said goodbye to the family, cows, Heath’s ger, and Dariganga. We caught a 17 hour bus back to Ulaanbaatar. The difference between this bus and the other buses I have taken are this: people sing, people share food, and people share drinks. That morning, one of the first things offered to me was a shot of vodka. To be polite (and Mongolian), I took the shot and soon found out how to politely refuse. Which is by putting your ring finger into the cup and flicking vodka to the sky gods 3 consecutive times. 3 is a very special number. It has to be 3. I brought some food and shared it with a friendly monk sitting across from us and a grumpy looking man at the corner of the bus. We were pretty quiet in the beginning. I slept on Jeremy’s shoulder and Heath on mine; it was a good system. At about hour 8-9 we were persuaded to sing English songs. And at about hour 11-12, we were becoming very popular with the locals. People were laughing and enjoying our company. It was the most fun I’ve ever had on a bus. I liked the feeling of community (the Mongolian songs were nice too.)
my view on the bus. The monk sat like that for most of the time.
We arrived in UB and quickly caught a bus to Darkhan to go to a small soum called Yeroo. In Darkhan, I stayed with some PCVs and got to play a baritone ukulele. It felt so good. We ate some Korean food too. I sadly didn’t get to know Darkhan that well, but it seemed like a nice place. Heath, Jeremy, and I found the bus station and packed into a taxi with 2 other people and drove 1.5 hours NW to Yeroo. It was one helluva ride, we all got very comfortable with each other by the end.
We made it to Yeroo and I was impressed by its charm. The nature around the town was beautiful. There is a river that flows beside the town, a marsh borders it to the SW, and a holy mountain lays to the East. The town itself is also quaint, it has lots of wood cabins, colorful buildings, a nice school, and of course the traditional gers. We were dropped off on the opposite side of town, so I got a good look while walking towards Jeremy and Heath’s host families homes. It was nice to see wooden homes of different sizes and shapes. In Dariganga, the homes were all cookie-cutter (all the same shape), while in Yeroo some had big windows, small windows, 2 stories, 1 story, etc.
We split from Jeremy and Heath showed me my new home for the next 4 days. I was going to live in a cute wooden cabin. It was very cozy. The inside was covered with rugs, there was a dry sink, a small table, a fireplace, and 2 windows. I had to crouch to walk inside, but I didn’t mind. After dropping off my stuff, Heath introduced me to my new sister. She brought us bortsig (fried dough) and fresh cream. It was delicious. She then also fed us some rice. I was very full after that. After eating, the family had to milk the cows. Heath and I helped by delivering the recently pumped cows milk to a filtering machine (Heath transported, I poured the milk into the machine, and Heath’s host brother churned the machine.) Heath’s family makes everything they drink and eat. They turn the milk into tea, or yogurt, or Arilth, or other foods. They also have sheep to make food, such as hoosher or soyven. It was very interesting to live with a self sustaining family. I learned a lot from them.
Heath and Jeremy making lunch. I made the noodles.
Each morning, I ate bortsig with cream (sometimes there was candy too). On the second day, it was the 1st day of Naadam. I wore my dell and went to the stadium to watch the events. There was no archery in Dariganga, so I spent a lot of time watching that. Heath’s host sister competed in the event, she got 3rd place! I was also lucky enough to follow the horse race by van. It is a totally different experience following the horses; I felt like I was really in the race. That was a great time! We returned to the stadium, ate some hoosher, and returned back to our homes. Heath’s family was kind enough to cook us sheep gedis (sheep innards; intestines, liver, stomach, blood sausage, ect.) It is a big deal for the family to kill a sheep, so I tried my best to eat as much as possible. It really didn’t taste bad, it was mostly the texture that got me. (We used the leftover gedis to make gedis hoosher. I helped make it. It was fun!). The hardest thing to eat for me was the sheep head. The next day they boiled the head in a soup of rice and fed it to us and then I was offered the face skin. I had to politely refuse, my stomach has eaten some crazy things, but I couldn’t handle the taste and texture of sheep head. Even thinking about it makes my stomach churn. Bleh.
The second day of Naadam went well. I watched Jeremy’s little brother wrestle and I even watched a second horse race. I decided halfway through the day that I wanted to go on a walk, so I put on my hiking pants and headed south, following a road. I walked towards a hill so that I could get a good view of Yeroo. In total, I think I walked for 4 hours. I helped milk cows after my walk, but mostly I herded them into their pen, and watched the sunset. (Have I mentioned how stellar the sunsets are in Mongolia? I think I have, but just so you know, they are amazing.)
The view from the hill. I can see Yeroo.
On our final day, Heath, Jeremy, and I spent most of it hanging out. Their families went to the countryside, so we went to the river, cooked soyven with a fire, and celebrated our 3 weeks together traveling. I really enjoyed my time with Jeremy. He’s an adorably, awkward Wisconsinite who studied international relations in college. He’ll spend 1 more year in Mongolia teaching English and then he will attend Masters school for foreign relations (I think). We had some good times and I’ll miss his company. Thanks Jeremy for the great memories! I think swing dancing in Heath’s ger is my highlight with you.
Heath and I went on a long walk out into the countryside. I knew it would be my last time and I was happy to share the moment with him. I am so grateful to have Heath as a friend. He was my guide in Mongolia and he did a great job. I have many fond memories, like the English camp, learning Mongolian waltz, cooking Mongolian food, and our long philosophical chats. Heath, thank you for everything.
Aren’t they cute in their Mongol Dells?
Well, the rest is history. I went back to UB with Heath, said goodbye to my friends, and caught the train north to Russia. The train ride was very pleasant. I enjoyed watching the scenery change from gers to logs cabins, and from flat valleys to forest. There were foreigners on the train, whom I chatted with, but I spent most of the time reading. I finished BossyPants by Tina Fey and then started the 5th book of Game of Thrones. (aaah!)
Well, that’s about it. I’ll catch a bus tomorrow morning to an island 7 hours SE of here that is within Lake Baikhal. I’ll make sure to write about it before I catch my train to Moscow.
Much love,
-Molly
Heath’s host sister Nomou,
Hello friends, I have been feeling a little under the weather the last couple days. So, this is the perfect opportunity to relax and catch up with my blog.
I am in Dariganga still. I finished camp last week and have been keeping myself busy. The day camp ended, the counselors decided to rent a meaker and to explore the Dariganga countryside. Heath told us there were some more holy mountains to climb and even a cave to explore! So, we packed ourselves into the car and drove into the middle of nowhere Mongolia.
The meaker we used and the Suhkbaatar countryside
The largest ovoo I’ve ever seen.
Our first stop was the caves, but before I get too into it, I must let you know why these caves are so special. Back in the 19th century, there was a Robin Hood of Sukhbataar province. His name was Toro Band. Toro was a run of the mill guy, except he was very talented at riding horses.
As you may or may not know, Mongolia is not too fond of China. They actually very much dislike China. Dariganga is very near the border and comparatively, it is pretty close to Beijing. So, Toro believed it was unjust for the Chinese emperor to have the fastest and strongest horses. He believed that the poor deserved horses just as good, so he did what any person would do; sneak into the emperor’s palace and steal his royal horses.
In the black of night, he would enter the palace, steal a horse, and then ride the horse back across the border. Of course, the Chinese officials were not happy about this. The emperor’s guard would chase Toro into Mongolia, but magically Toro always got away. Little did the Chinese know, Toro knew where all the caves near Dariganga were and he would smuggle the horses into these caves. Also, these caves are not the cliff ones, but random holes in the ground. If you were not following the road or weren’t looking while in your car, you could easily fall into one of these caves. Since Sukhbataar is all steppe, from a distance everything looks the same. No wonder Toro would disappear.
See the cave entrance in the left corner?
Well, we entered one of Toro Band’s caves. The entrance was blocked once upon a time, so it was a bit of a squeeze to get inside. After the entrance, the tunnel was very low to the ground. We had to crouch and avoid the stalagmites and stalactites. It was also very cold. There was ice everywhere. After crawling for 15-20 feet, the cave began to get bigger and bigger, until we were in this giant circular room. There were decorations everywhere and the rock formations were stellar. The cave ceiling must have been at least 15 feet tall. I’ve been in caves before, but nothing like this.
The cave ceiling. It is covered in ice. It was at least 15 feet high (4.5 meters).
Just giving some perspective.
After hearing the story about horse smuggling, I could imagine this cave being full of horses. It was sure big enough to fit at least 20-30. Something cool about Dariganga is that it is famous for having the fastest horses in all of Mongolia.
This is only because Toro Band stole the emperors best horses and now those genes have passed down to the Dariganga horses of today. Isn’t that interesting?
I guess I’ll let you know one more tale about Toro Band. Well, after some time of horse smuggling, Toro was caught. The Chinese guard finally found him (possibly at the cave I visited) and arrested him. They brought him to Dariganga prison to hold him captive till they could bring him to China. Well, Toro wasn’t having it, so he escaped in the middle of the night and did what he does best: he stole a horse. He rode the horse towards the Ultan Ovoo, the holy mountain bordering the town. The Chinese guards learned right away about his escape. They jumped onto their horses and got on his tail. Toro decided to go straight up the mountain, believing he could get ahead of the guards, but the guards went around the mountain to meet him on the other side. When Toro reached the top of the mountain he either saw the torches or heard the guards racing to the other side of the mountain. Toro is a clever man, so instead of going down the other side, he turned back and went down the same way he went up. In the story, I was told that his horse slipped and he surfed down the mountain, made it down, and then stole another horse to make his escape. He was never caught again and continued to steal horses till the end of his days.
Well that’s Toro Band. Heath told me that the trail up the mountain is the same trail Toro took. For some odd reason, I feel a slight connection to him. I’ve been to his cave and I have walked on his path to the mountain. One of my favorite parts about traveling is hearing these kinds of tales. It gives me a better understanding of the world around me. So now when I see horses gallop around, I feel some excitement because these horses are here thanks to Toro Band.
Other than that, I have been relaxing. I learned how to make some Mongolian dishes, such as soyven and milk tea. I’ve gone on very long walks into the countryside. I’ve milked cows a couple of times and helped herd them (eating the fresh yogurt afterward is so worth waking up at 5am). I even visited the camp again and played games with a new batch of campers. Heath and I also got pulverized at UNO by Heath’s host family. Man, was that embarrassing. Heath’s friend Jeremy (another PCV) is here visiting and he brought his guitar, so I’ve been able to play and to listen to Jeremy play.
Life is good and I am very happy.
My next post will probably be about Nadaam. It’s in 2 days!
Much love,
-Molly
The soyven Heath and I made. Yum. 
Heath and I at the top of the sacred mountain.
Molly's Journey to the West 